When Life Gets Heavy, Head to Boso — A Healing Weekend 90 Minutes from Tokyo
There's a particular kind of tiredness that a good night's sleep won't fix. The kind that builds up slowly — from crowded trains, blue screens, back-to-back meetings, and the low hum of a city that never quite goes silent. What you need isn't a vacation. It's a pause.
The Boso Peninsula, stretching south from the eastern shore of Tokyo Bay, is one of the closest places to Tokyo where that pause feels real. Drive across the Aqua-Line — a bridge-and-tunnel crossing that dips beneath Tokyo Bay — and in about 90 minutes you'll find yourself in a landscape of forested hills, quiet fishing ports, and roads that wind through rice paddies with no one else on them.
This isn't a guide to "things to do." It's a guide to slowing down.
Where Is the Boso Peninsula?
The Boso Peninsula makes up the southern half of Chiba Prefecture, forming the eastern arm of Tokyo Bay. The inner coast (Uchibo side) faces the calm waters of the bay, with gentle hills and fishing villages. The outer coast (Sotobo side) faces the Pacific, with surf beaches and dramatic cliffs.
This guide focuses on the Futtsu and Kanaya area along the inner coast — the closest part of Boso to Tokyo, and the quietest. From Yokosuka, you can also reach Kanaya by ferry across Tokyo Bay in about 40 minutes.
A Healing Weekend: Day-by-Day
Day 1 Afternoon — Move Your Body on Mount Nokogiri
Leave Tokyo around 1 PM and cross the Aqua-Line. Your first stop: Nokogiriyama (Mount Nokogiri, 329m), a modest mountain with an outsized history. For centuries, stone was quarried here, leaving behind sheer cliff faces and eerie carved corridors. Today, the mountain is home to Nihonji Temple and its two famous sights: the "Hell Peek" (Jigoku Nozoki) observation point jutting over a cliff, and Japan's largest stone Buddha (31 meters tall, carved into the rock face).
Take the ropeway up (4 minutes), then walk through the temple grounds at your own pace. There are steep stone steps in places, so wear proper shoes. The whole circuit takes about 90 minutes. If you only do one thing, stand at Hell Peek and look straight down.
- Hours: 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM (last entry 3:00 PM)
- Temple admission: 700 yen (adults) / 400 yen (children 4-12)
- Ropeway: 1,200 yen round trip (adults) / 600 yen (children)
- Website: nihonji.jp
Day 1 Evening — Check In to the Hills
From Nokogiriyama, it's a 20-minute drive to Washin Village, a glamping retreat nestled in the satoyama hills of Futtsu City. Around 20 rescued animals live here — 16 cats, 2 dogs, 2 goats. Check-in is at 3:00 PM.
Drop your bags and head straight to the wood-fired sauna. It's Finnish-style, heated by real firewood, with self-löyly (pour water on the stones yourself). After a few rounds of sauna, cold plunge, and outdoor rest — lying in the open air while the hills go quiet around you — something shifts. The noise in your head starts to fade.
Evening means BBQ — and according to Google reviewers, it's good. "The BBQ meat is delicious" (9 mentions) and "the ingredients are generous and luxurious" (7 mentions). As you grill, cats drift over to sit at your feet. Some guests reported that "a cat stayed by my side the entire BBQ." After dinner: bonfire. Firewood is free, and multiple reviewers note the joy of "being able to have a bonfire as long as you want." Look up — "you can see a sky full of stars" (3 mentions).
Day 2 Morning — Cats, Coffee, Second Sauna
Mornings in the satoyama are quiet in a way that takes a moment to register. Birdsong instead of traffic. Dew on the grass. Walk the property, say good morning to the dogs and goats, and watch the cats stretch awake in the sunlight.
After breakfast, take the sauna one more time. The morning session hits different — cooler air, softer light, the whole day still ahead of you but with nowhere to rush. Check out at 11:00 AM.
Day 2 Lunch — Local Food on the Way Home
Takeoka-style Ramen at Umenoya — One of Chiba's "Big Three" ramen styles. The broth is made from nothing but chashu pork cooking liquid diluted with hot water. Sounds simple. Tastes unforgettable. Topped with thick slabs of chashu and raw onions. Be warned: irregular closures and long lines are part of the experience.
- Hours: Weekdays 10:00–18:00 / Weekends 10:00–17:00 (closes when chashu runs out)
- Closed: Tuesdays and Wednesdays
- Address: 401 Takeoka, Futtsu City, Chiba
The Fish — A seafood market complex right at Kanaya Port. Restaurant, conveyor-belt sushi bar, grilled seafood stall, souvenir market, and a baumkuchen bakery. Open daily, 9:00–18:00. Website: thefish.co.jp
Other Healing Spots on the Boso Peninsula
Yoro Valley Hot Springs
Deep in the interior of Boso, Yoro Valley (Yoro Keikoku) is Chiba's premier hot spring area. The water here is a distinctive dark "black spring" (kuroyu) with a silky texture. For a day visit, try Goriyaku-no-Yu (1,200 yen adults) — an open-air bath overlooking the valley. Autumn foliage season (mid-November to early December) is especially beautiful.
Kamogawa Sea World
Famous for its orca performances, this ocean-themed park is on the Pacific coast, about 50 minutes from Washin Village. Admission: 3,300 yen (adults). Hours vary by day (typically 9:00–16:00). Check the official website for closures.
Minamiboso Flower Fields
Along the southern coast from Minamiboso to Tateyama, fields of rapeseed and poppies bloom from January through spring — earlier than almost anywhere else in Japan, thanks to the warm Kuroshio Current. A perfect roadside stop.
Getting There
By Car (Recommended)
Take the Shuto Expressway to Kawasaki-Ukishima IC, cross the Tokyo Bay Aqua-Line, then take the Tateyama Expressway to Futtsu-Chuo IC. From there, 10 minutes to Washin Village. Total: about 70–90 minutes from central Tokyo.
Aqua-Line ETC Tolls (regular car, since April 2025):
| Weekdays | Weekends (off-peak) | Weekends (peak) | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Southbound (Kawasaki → Kisarazu) | 800 yen | 400 yen (midnight–4 AM) | 1,000 yen (5–7 AM) |
| Northbound (Kisarazu → Kawasaki) | 800 yen | 400 yen (midnight–4 AM, 8–midnight) | 1,600 yen (1–7 PM) |
Without ETC: 3,140 yen. Bring your ETC card. On weekends, avoid the 1–7 PM return window (1,600 yen). Leave by noon or after 8 PM for the best rates.
By Train
JR Uchibo Line from Tokyo Station to Aobori Station: about 1 hour 40 minutes. For Nokogiriyama: get off at Hamakanaya Station. A rental car from Kisarazu Station makes local travel much easier.
By Ferry
Tokyo Bay Ferry from Kurihama (Yokosuka) to Kanaya Port: about 40 minutes. Cars welcome. Convenient from the Kanagawa side.
Stay at Washin Village
| Room | Description | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Kominka Farmhouse | 200-year-old traditional farmhouse | From 25,000 yen/night |
| Jyubako | Kengo Kuma × Snow Peak mobile house, 2 guests only | From 20,000 yen/night |
| Nagayamon | Spacious gatehouse room | From 30,000 yen/night |
| Nordisk Tent | Glamping tent | From 18,000 yen/night |
Wood-fired sauna: free for guests / Covered BBQ area / Bonfire with free firewood / Wi-Fi / Free parking
Check-in 3:00 PM / Check-out 11:00 AM
Book: d-reserve.jp (online only)
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I get there by train instead of driving?
Yes. Take the JR Uchibo Line from Tokyo Station to Aobori Station (about 1 hour 40 minutes). For Nokogiriyama, get off at Hamakanaya Station. However, a car is much more convenient for getting around locally. One option: take the Aqua-Line highway bus to Kisarazu and rent a car there.
How much is the Aqua-Line toll?
Since April 2025, ETC tolls vary by time and day. Weekdays: 800 yen (regular car). Weekends and holidays: 400–1,000 yen going south, 400–1,600 yen going north, depending on the time. Early mornings and late nights are cheapest. Without ETC: 3,140 yen.
What if it rains?
Rain actually adds to the atmosphere. At Washin Village, the wood-fired sauna has a roof and works in any weather. The 200-year-old farmhouse is cozy in the rain. BBQ is under a covered area. And the rescue cats tend to stay indoors on rainy days, so you may get even more cat time. Nokogiriyama hiking isn't ideal in rain, but the ropeway still operates.