Futtsu & Kanaya Area Guide — Mountain Trails, Fishing, Hot Springs & Local Eats

If you're looking for a place where the mountains, the sea, hot springs, and great food all arrive in the same package — and you don't want to travel more than 90 minutes from Tokyo — Futtsu City in Chiba Prefecture deserves a serious look. Tucked at the mouth of Tokyo Bay, this corner of the Boso Peninsula sits just 70 minutes away via the Aqua-Line highway. Come by car or, if you want to make the journey part of the adventure, board the Tokyo Bay Ferry from Yokosuka and cross the water in 40 minutes. Either way, what waits on the other side feels genuinely far from the city.

This guide covers every major attraction in the Futtsu and Kanaya area — actual opening hours, prices, and the kind of honest details that make a trip go smoothly.

Nokogiriyama — The Best Hike Near Tokyo You've Probably Never Heard Of

At 329.4 meters, Nokogiriyama ("Saw Mountain") isn't tall. But nothing about its reputation is about altitude. The mountain has been quarried for sandstone since the Edo period, and the exposed vertical rock faces left behind are nothing short of dramatic — think cliff walls sheared clean, rising like the ruins of something ancient. On clear days from the summit, you can see across Tokyo Bay to the Miura Peninsula, and beyond that, Mount Fuji, the Yokohama skyline, and even Tokyo Skytree. The view punches far above the mountain's weight.

What to See on Nokogiriyama

• Jigoku-nozoki (Hell's Peek) — A narrow rock overhang jutting out near the summit. You stand at the tip and look straight down a near-vertical cliff face. It is, as the name suggests, a little terrifying — in the best possible way.
• Nihon-ji Great Buddha — A 31.05-meter stone Buddha carved directly into the mountainside. To put that in perspective: the Great Buddha at Nara measures 14.98 meters. This is the largest outdoor stone Buddha in Japan, and it is carved, not cast.
• Hyakushaku Kannon — A 30-meter-tall Kannon figure also carved from the rock face. It took six years to complete.
• The Stone Quarry Ruins ("Laputa Wall") — The straight-cut stone walls have earned a nickname among Japanese visitors: the "Laputa Wall," after the sky castle in the Ghibli film. On misty days, the resemblance is uncanny.

Tickets, Hours & Practical Details

A practical note: the stone steps are beautiful but uneven, and some sections get slippery in damp weather. Proper walking shoes are not optional here. In January 2026, Nihon-ji marked its 1,300th anniversary with a special public display of painted fusuma screens — a sign of how much living history is packed into this one mountain.

Futtsu Cape — A Peninsular Point Sticking Five Kilometers into Tokyo Bay

Futtsu Cape is a narrow sandspit that extends nearly 5 kilometers into the middle of Tokyo Bay. At the very tip stands the "Meiji Centennial Observation Tower" — a concrete structure shaped like the needles of a Japanese black pine, and freely open to climb (no admission fee). From the top, you get a 360-degree panorama of the bay that is completely different from anything you'd see from the mainland shore.

Sunset here is something people talk about. With the Miura Peninsula across the water to the west, the sun drops behind hills and sets the bay surface glowing. Photographers make dedicated trips for this shot. The surrounding Futtsu Park has camping grounds and a large public pool, so families tend to make a full afternoon of it. Renovation works on the observation tower completed in March 2023, and the structure is now in excellent shape.

The Tokyo Bay Ferry — Crossing the Water Instead of Driving Around It

One of the most quietly satisfying ways to arrive at Kanaya is by sea. The Tokyo Bay Ferry connects Kurihama Port in Yokosuka to Kanaya Port in Futtsu — a 40-minute crossing that costs just ¥1,600 round-trip for a foot passenger. You can bring your car aboard if you want. Standing on the open deck as the ferry moves across the bay, with Mount Fuji visible on the right side on a clear morning, is one of those travel moments that costs almost nothing but stays with you.

For visitors coming from Yokosuka, Kamakura, or anywhere on the Miura Peninsula, the ferry is also the practical choice — it completely sidesteps Aqua-Line traffic. The first departure from Kurihama is at 6:20 AM; from Kanaya at 7:00 AM. Ferries run roughly hourly, making day trips and overnight stays equally easy to plan.

Note: Several dates in 2026 have scheduled suspension of service (March 8, May 17, July 11, September 27). Check the official site for the latest timetable before you travel.

Local Food 1 — Hakarime-Don, Futtsu's Beloved Eel Rice Bowl

Every region in Japan seems to have a dish that locals insist you must try, and in Futtsu that dish is hakarime-don. "Hakarime" is the local word for conger eel (anago) caught in Tokyo Bay — the name refers to the row of markings along the eel's body that look like the notches on an old-fashioned balance scale. Futtsu sits at one of the best anago fishing grounds in the bay, which means what arrives on your rice bowl is fresh in a way that restaurant versions in Tokyo simply are not.

The preparation is classic: the eel is braised in a sweet-savory tare sauce until the flesh is tender and just slightly sticky, then laid generously over a bowl of steamed rice. It is rich without being heavy. Every summer, the city holds a "Futtsu Hakarime Fair" where restaurants across town compete with their own versions — but you don't need to time your visit around the festival to find good hakarime-don.

Where to Eat Hakarime-Don

Local Food 2 — Takeoka-Style Ramen, the Soup That Shouldn't Work (But Does)

Takeoka-style ramen is one of three regional ramen styles that Chiba claims as its own, and it is the most unusual of the three. The broth is made by diluting the braising liquid from the chashu pork with hot water and nothing else. No stock, no dashi, no kelp — just pork braising liquid. That sounds like it should be one-dimensional, but the result is a deeply concentrated, slightly sweet, meaty soup that has an almost addictive quality. The noodles are dried (not fresh), which is another break from ramen convention, and they hold up well in the rich liquid.

The original shop is Umeya, in the Takeoka neighborhood of Futtsu City. Founded in 1954 and still run by the family that started it, Umeya does not take reservations. You show up, you wait however long the line requires, and you eat. Hours are 10:00–18:00 (or until the chashu runs out, which often happens earlier), closed Tuesday and Wednesday. Phone: 0439-67-0920.

Local Food 3 — The Fish, a Seafood Complex Right on Kanaya Harbor

If you've just come down from Nokogiriyama and want lunch without any effort, The Fish is right there at Kanaya Port and covers every base. The complex holds a sit-down seafood restaurant, a revolving sushi counter, a market selling local produce and pickles, and a baum kuchen bakery, all in one floor-to-ceiling glass building that looks straight out at Tokyo Bay. It is the kind of place that fills up on weekend afternoons, but the views alone make waiting worthwhile.

The baum kuchen brand "Minatei" based here has become a recognized Kanaya souvenir — worth picking up on the way out. Seafood rice bowls and sashimi set lunches are the perennial crowd favorites in the restaurant.

Natural Hot Spring — Open-Air Bath Overlooking the Bay

After hiking Nokogiriyama or walking the length of Futtsu Cape, a hot spring is exactly what your legs are asking for. Kaibe no Yu, a natural hot spring attached to the seafood restaurant Kanaya, delivers that and more: an open-air bath with an unobstructed view of Tokyo Bay. On clear days you can soak while looking at the Miura Peninsula and, beyond it, the outline of Mount Fuji. There are few better ways to end an afternoon in this part of Chiba.

The attached Kanaya restaurant (Mon–Fri 9:30–18:00, Sat/Sun/Holidays 9:00–19:00, open year-round) serves grilled seafood and fisherman-style meals. Combining a meal with a bath and a sunset over the bay makes for a genuinely satisfying half-day plan that costs under ¥3,000 per person.

Sample Itinerary — Futtsu & Kanaya, One Night Two Days

Staying at Washin Village — The Best Base for This Area

About 15 minutes by car from both Nokogiriyama and Kanaya Harbor, Washin Village sits in the satoyama hills of Futtsu City and operates as a nature glamping retreat. With 281 Google reviews averaging 4.77 stars, the feedback tells a consistent story: guests come for the scenery and stay for the cats. A Tourism Quality (TQ) analysis of the review data found "interaction with the cats" mentioned in 32 reviews, "cats are affectionate" in 18, "a cat came into the room" in 15, "cat slept in my futon" in 11, and "the BBQ meat was delicious" in 9. These are not incidental details — they are the experience.

The property is home to 16 rescue cats who move freely around the grounds. They are not in cages, not behind glass — they wander where they like and decide on their own terms when they want company. There are also 2 dogs and 2 goats. The wood-fired Finnish sauna is free for all overnight guests.

Check-in from 15:00 / Check-out by 11:00. Reservations are online only via d-reserve.jp. Parking is free. The wood-fired sauna is complimentary for all guests.

"A cat climbed into my futon and slept with me all night." "I was sitting by the bonfire and a cat just climbed onto my lap." — From Google reviews (TQ analysis: "slept in futon together" noted in 11 reviews, "climbed on lap" in 9)

Getting There

One important heads-up on the Aqua-Line: as of April 2025, weekend tolls are now time-tiered (ranging from ¥400 to ¥1,600 depending on the time of day), while weekday tolls remain flat at ¥800 with ETC. Traffic near Umihotaru PA can build up on weekend afternoons — if you're driving back to Tokyo on a Sunday, try to pass through before 3:00 PM or take the ferry instead.

By train: the nearest station is Aobori on the JR Uchibo Line. Washin Village can arrange shuttle pickup from the station with advance notice.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get from Tokyo to the Futtsu/Kanaya area?

By car, the Aqua-Line route takes about 70 minutes from central Tokyo (ETC ¥800 on weekdays). By train, the JR Uchibo Line runs to the area in about 2 hours. From Yokosuka or Kurihama, the Tokyo Bay Ferry crosses to Kanaya in about 40 minutes (round-trip ¥1,600). Weekend drivers should note the Aqua-Line's new time-tiered weekend tolls (¥400–¥1,600) and try to cross before 3:00 PM on Sundays to beat the return traffic.

How long does Nokogiriyama take to explore?

The ropeway reaches the summit station in about 4 minutes. From there, a full loop covering the Great Buddha, Jigoku-nozoki, and the stone quarry ruins takes 1.5 to 2 hours. Hiking up and back on foot from the base is about 3 to 4 hours. The ropeway runs 9:00–17:00 in the main season and 9:00–16:00 in winter. Bring proper walking shoes — there are a lot of stone steps and some surfaces are uneven.

What is hakarime-don?

Hakarime is the local Futtsu name for conger eel (anago) caught in Tokyo Bay. The name comes from the markings along the eel's body that resemble the notches on a traditional balance scale. Hakarime-don is a rice bowl topped with eel that has been braised in a sweet-savory tare sauce — it is the signature local dish of the area, and the fish is genuinely fresher here than anything you'll find in Tokyo. Each summer, the city runs a Hakarime Fair with special versions at participating restaurants across town.

Is there a day-trip hot spring near Kanaya?

Yes — Kaibe no Yu, attached to the Kanaya restaurant, offers day-trip bathing with an open-air pool overlooking Tokyo Bay. Admission is ¥1,100 on weekdays and ¥1,200 on weekends (towel included). Hours are weekdays 10:00–20:30 and weekends 9:00–21:00. Pairing lunch at the restaurant with a soak in the hot spring makes for a comfortable and affordable half-day plan.

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